Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Apertado assim, Colado assim, Calado assim

(Vinicius de Moraes)

The great Brazilian composer Antonio Carlos Jobim is said to have become tired enough of the translations of the lyrics to his songs that he himself, Portuguese/English dictionary at his side, tackled the immense task of translating into English his own original lyric to one of his finest masterpieces, “Aguas de Março.” This song, with its verses of piled-up images, was so dear to his heart that he couldn’t bear to have it butchered by another North American lyricist, as had been the case with some of his other well-known songs. During the initial Bossa Nova craze, these songs, and those of other composers, had been subjected to the process of translation so that North American artists could record them and satisfy the demand (both from artists and audiences). But, translation being what it is, namely, difficult, it was common for North American lyricists to adapt quite loosely the Portuguese version, and in some cases even to blindly steamroll over essential aspects of the original melody, in the process writing a new lyric with its own story, even its own new meter! This dubious process of “translation” resulted in English versions that disrespect and trivialize the work of some of the 20th century’s greatest composers of popular song.

Thus, “Garota de Ipanema” (Jobim/Vinicius de Moraes), a song whose main theme contains a beautiful natural syncopation and whose words speak of a girl “full of grace” who is more balanced than a poem and who transforms the world into a place full of grace “por causa de amor” (because of love), loses very essential things in its translation. In English, we’re now talking about a “tall, tan, young and lovely” girl who walks “like a samba” and makes everyone she passes say “Ah!” Also, with a wave of the lyricist’s pen, the girl’s intangible grace is transformed to aloofness (“she looks straight ahead, not at me”). Importantly, the syncopated main theme, originally stated in eighth- and sixteenth notes with two beats in the bar and a signature emphasis on the last sixteenth note of bars 2 and 4, is changed to one bar of four even quarter notes: its essence—its own grace, its own balance—changed so that English speakers can sing it and feel its meter.

In “Chega de Saudade,” (Jobim/de Moraes) the singer says “Vai, minha tristeza” (go, my sadness). But he’s not only telling his sadness to go away, he’s actually telling his sadness, his actual sadness, to go and tell his beloved that without her “não pode ser” (it can’t be), there can’t be peace, there can’t be beauty, but only “tristeza e melancolia” that will not leave him. He imagines her coming back to him, and from then on (when at the same time the music changes from a minor key to a major key) the lyrics are a brilliant tour-de-force of imagery about the ways the singer will embrace his beloved upon her return. Finally, he says, he’s done with all this business of living without her, of her living far. The English translation by Jon Hendricks is respectful of the melody (as befits the work of a lyricist who could set the most intractable bebop instrumental solos to words), but loses all of the urgency of the original song. First there is the issue of the title, “Chega de Saudade” (“Enough of Saudade”). “Saudade” is that famous, most untranslatable of Portuguese words, having something to do with longing, something to do with yearning, something to do with nostalgia, but something more than all of these and more. We all feel it, but it can only be said in one language. To translate saudade, Hendricks opts for “blues.” “No More Blues” is his solution, and in some ways he’s right on the money. The blues is that famous and most untranslatable American word for a specific emotion, a particular feeling-tone, something we all feel but that can only be said in one language. Perhaps translating “saudade” as “blues” is his master-stroke here, because from then on, the subject of the song is changed. Now we’re listening to someone who embraces the cliché “home is where the heart is” and who will refuse to travel from now on, and finally settle down and get a mate. This is all well and good, but it’s trite as it can be, and a far cry from the original.

As someone who is learning Portuguese, I can say without any question that it is a language whose sounds alone are very difficult to master, not to mention its words and its sentence structure, its colloquial expressions, its slang. But I’m beginning to feel that it is tantamount to an insult to impose our will as English speakers/singers upon the brilliant Brazilian composers who write with such a specific and inventive melodic and rhythmic language, and the lyricists who set these melodies and rhythms to a fluent and poetic Portuguese, rich in metaphor, deep with meaning and cultural significance. Just because we find it hard to say “não,” “João,” and “canção” doesn’t really legitimize being so cavalier with these great works of art.

It’s hard to imagine people from other countries seriously attempting to translate the words of Ira Gershwin, Cole Porter, Bob Dylan, Lennon & McCartney, Mose Allison, Joni Mitchell, or Jon Hendricks into their own languages. In fact, look for examples. You hardly ever see it. Listen to Caetano Veloso or João Gilberto singing songs from the “Great American Songbook,” or Milton Nascimento singing “Norwegian Wood”: these guys make a go at singing English lyrics in English. They seem to know and respect that the melody and the lyric go hand-in-hand; a song is not something you just dismantle at will.

Lately, I’ve noticed current artists* and friends of mine grappling with and mastering the original lyrics of foreign songs, and I hope in the coming years to hear more. It all speaks of a love for the delicate art of songwriting, and expresses respect for the profoundly inspired people who wrote those songs, and who ought to be forgiven for not being from the US of A.

*Check out the work of Lane Steinberg here on myspace.com for some particularly fascinating examples (www.myspace.com/lanesteinberg), or Esperanza Spalding’s version of Milton Nascimento’s “Ponta de Areia.”

Sunday, November 09, 2008

Bar Biu & Ó do Borogodó, SP


Those who regularly read my posts will know that I relish the experience whose various elements have been reduced down to their essences. Increasingly, I’m moved simply by beautiful songs, melodic and executed with precision; satisfied by delicious food, simple and simply prepared; grounded and calmed by a walk along the sidewalks of a vibrant city, or through an area such as the 798 art zone in Beijing (report to follow soon!). Those encounters heighten my senses, and tap into the place inside where I feel the most alive. I have spent the last month in Brazil, and most of that time in São Paulo, a city that offers up endless opportunities for this kind of experience.

Last night, my girlfriend and I drove—actually, I did the driving: totally nuts!—through São Paulo streets packed with Saturday night traffic and people, to the corner of João Moura and Cardeal (Pinheiros neighborhood). Here, the lively Bar Biu serves truly outstanding home cooking. Ask Dona Edi, the proprietress, what she recommends, and she might say to you, as she did to me, “I can’t recommend anything to you right now because I’m not hungry!” OK, Dona Edi! Makes sense to me. Left to make our own choices, we feasted on perfectly cooked rice and beans, a simple salad, and the addictive specialty of the house, “Vaquejada,” a mouthwatering concoction of carne do sol (a not-fancy cut of beef, salted and dried over a period of time) cooked together on the skillet with onions and queijo de coalho (a cow’s milk cheese, typical of the northeast of Brazil) served alongside pumpkin and farinha de mandioca (mandioca flour). All was washed down with ice cold beer; and a small dose of house cachaça sent us on our merry way to a famous and funky bar in nearby Vila Madalena, Ó do Borogodó, where we danced together and listened to Cochichando, a band of young musicians, playing beautiful modern Choro songs. Our dancing was a bit more elementary than that of some of the other couples in the house, but how truly satisfying it was to move together to the strong groove of that upbeat music with it’s sinuous melodies.

Tomorrow, I will blog about our excursion to Bar do Mané, located in SP’s Mercado Municipal, and famous for its killer mortadella sandwiches.

Friday, October 31, 2008

Coming soon

I'm here in Brasil, doing shows until the 7th of November. I will write soon about the delicious Bar do Mané, in São Paulo's wonderful Mercado Municipal. In RJ, we've been tearing it up in Lapa, meeting more and more wonderful musicians and new friends. Curitiba is next, where we hope to connect with Hermeto Pascoal, and after, we'll return to SP for a show there. Pictures and posts to come soon!

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Wong Ah Wah restaurant, Jalan Alor, KL


You want these. They are the best chicken wings I've ever had, and I'd hazard a guess that they are the best in the world.

Glowing sparks from burning wood coals are flying everywhere and hot chicken fat drips and spatters as the man in charge of Wong Ah Wah's famous chicken wings turns out vast quantities of this almost drug-like dish. He attends to a partially-open BBQ smoker lined with wood charcoals radiating intense heat, blazing red-orange and glistening black, appearing almost lava-like. Holding fifteen to twenty wings, a metal spit/skewer with a wooden handle on the end slides into a groove on the side of the smoker, and our man furiously rotates four or five of them (the spits) at a time with his left hand, almost exactly as he would be if he were playing a one-on-one Foosball World-Cup Final against himself. All the while, with an old straw fan in his right hand, he fans the fire, circulating smoke not only around the wings that are cooking inside the smoker, but also up and over and out, making contact with the raw skewered wings that are resting on top of it, waiting in the wings so to speak, which before being cooked have already been semi-marinated (and from what I could tell don't seem to have been marinated in anything else beforehand) in that delicious and pungent flavor element. Every now and again, the cooking wings are brushed with oil. Our man wears big work boots, blue jeans streaked coal-black, and a long-sleeved shirt, even in this heat, and he knows the precise moment when the Foosball-player wings are done. Without a flourish, he removes a spit from the smoker, slides the wings off the spit and onto a waiting tray, and turns back to the fiery furnace. It's impressive.

The wings smell like sweet smoke, rendered fat, and cooking caramel, aromas that frame and balance the more savory, animal taste of the chicken, its saltiness, its fleshiness. The wings drip juice and fat, and while they can stand alone (and must be tried that way) there is a sweet and spicy chili sauce served alongside them, which is delicious and should not go without mention.

Monday, September 29, 2008

On Iggy's recommendation: Sin Huat Eating House

Chef Danny Lee, über-hawker, cooks in galoshes. He will tell you about the virtues of Sri Lankan crab as he removes the squirming decapods from their bins. He and his corner shop Sin Huat Eating House (Lorong 35, Geylang, Singapore) have been featured on Anthony Bourdain's show. Bourdain went nuts slurping fresh scallops in black bean & garlic sauce, and attacking Chef Lee's famous Crab Bee Hoon. The Singapore hawker expert FK Seetoh, Bourdain, and countless bloggers have made Sin Huat very popular, but we were the only ones there on this Thursday night in late September. In fact, when we arrived there, there were no customers in the place, and we worried that we might have missed "last call." So that we wouldn't be starving during the long wait that some bloggers had warned about, my friends and I had made an earlier stop at Din Tai Fung to polish off a couple dozen Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai-style soup dumplings). After, we took a taxi to Geylang, passing Durian stand after Durian stand, making our way to Lorong 35, and "stepped into another world," as Joe Jackson might say.

Sin Huat's hype is deserved. This is one of the most delicious meals I've ever had. Whole steamed fish (out of tank), chinese kale (Kai Lan), black pepper crab, and the signature crab bee hoon were all nothing less than exquisite. Chef Lee and his family were friendly and gracious, and made us feel at home. The Tiger beer was cold, and we finished everything. I wish we'd stayed in Singapore another day; I imagine I'd have returned for another round.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Black Pepper Crab & Crab bee hoon


spicy and delicious....

seafood at its very best.... Chef Danny Lee's Crab bee hoon

Sin Huat Eating House, Lorong 35, Geylang, Singapore


Chef Danny Lee with fresh Sri Lankan crab... ready for "Crab bee hoon"!!!

I think it's Chef Danny's wife, here she's preparing our steamed fish for us!

clicking on the title of this post will take you to Anthony Bourdain's TV visit to Sin Huat Eating House

Iggy's SG II


capellini with sakura ebi


morey st denis; sorbet & campari jelly


chocolate bar with mascarpone ice cream

Iggy's SG


steamed malabar (local singapore fish)


sweet corn "cappucino" --- you can't see the bitter chocolate "ravioli" but it was in there!

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We arrived in Singapore at 6 AM last Thursday. By 12:30 PM, Karriem Riggins, Robert Hurst and I were seated at the counter of Iggy's: stashed like a jewel in a remote corner of the Regent Hotel, this gorgeous and tiny restaurant's vibe, service, and food hit all the right notes. Here is fancy food with no snobbery, no pretensions; a fantastic wine list; an atmosphere restrained, classy, and non-trendy. The place simply rocks. Ignatius Chan, the owner and world-class sommelier/hedonist (and his wife and business partner Janice) has become a friend over the last few years, since we got to spend some time hanging out together in Australia's Barossa Valley. On this day, Iggy planned a tasting menu for us. (Clicking on the title of this entry will take you to Iggy's website.)

Alongside Jacquesson Cuvee #731 Champagne, Domaine Arlaud Morey St Denis "Les Chesaux" 2001, and Torbreck "The Bothie" Muscat, we enjoyed a parade of exquisite small dishes.

Cauliflower mousse, uni, shiso jelly

Sweet corn "cappucino" with bitter chocolate "ravioli"

Burrata (from Puglia), tomatoes, basil, aged balsamico, e.v.o.o.

Steamed malabar, chinese greens, tamarind broth

Capellini, sakura ebi, konbu, scampi oil

Smoked veal cheek, truffle mash potatoes, braised shallot

Campari Jelly, blood orange sorbet, marinated forest berries

Caraibe chocolate bar, mascarpone ice-cream, green lime

people and food, kampung baru, ramadhan bazaar



beautiful food and people, during the closing days of ramadhan, in Kuala Lumpur. the neighborhood Kampung Baru has been a Malay settlement for many many years, allowing the Malay people to preserve their humble village lifestyle. it sits low in the terrain, in the shadow of the huge Petronas Twin Towers, representing something native, simple, and beautiful: something that *should* be preserved. during Ramadhan, there are daily bazaars, with block after block of people selling delicious Malay food. You buy your food and take it home. The best stands are the ones with big lines, and the best items disappear quickly!
I really enjoyed "Rendang" in a huge wok, served with coconut rice; bbq chicken wings; and a kind of egg pancake filled with a chicken or beef curry... I think I took home 7 bags of food! More later, with pics, from Wong Ah Wah (in KL), and Iggy's and Sin Huat Eating House (in Singapore).

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

post Frida Kahlo, SFMOMA, Sept. 1, 2008, Lu Alves, Chico Pinheiro, Edu Ribeiro, & yours truly



I'm making a googly-eye face in one, but for some reason I think the other pic is funnier! Frida Kahlo messed with our minds! So did burgers and beer at Taylor's Refresher.

SUMMER BLOGS CLICK HERE


I neglected this blog site but here's my amends. Click the title and read about absurd food adventures in Europe, and even some music stuff. Yes, I play music, right? God But I Love Great Food. GBIGF.